This season, designers in the city focused on codes that blended classic and contemporary
The buzz around Burberry was unanimous. After last night's show, everyone wanted to slip on a pair of tight riding pants and stomp through a misty, grassy field in slick leather boots and a glossy trench coat. For his fall 25 collection, Daniel Lee was inspired by the eccentricities and travel habits of the Brits. He referenced bohemian Londoners and jaunts to the lavish estates. It was an ode to the particularly British love for the outdoors-an escape but also a chance to dress smart, no matter the weather. Lee materialized this idea with a shock of cinched-in patent leather trench coats, long kilts layered over trousers in a matching Burberry check, and texture galore -- shaggy fur, woolen tartan, and bold fringe.
Burberry's fall 2025 lineup, arguably Lee's best outing since joining the house in 2021, followed a striking pattern seen across this season's runways this past London Fashion Week. Designers from Steven Stokey-Daley to Simone Rocha and a couple of the Central Saint Martins grads tapped into classic British style archetypes -- belted coats, patterned cloth, a few toggle coats, equestrian-style boots -- and breathed new life into them.
Aside from the literal reinterpretations of fashion from across the pond, many others this week did two other things that are crucial to the creative landscape of London style: resist and rebel. Designers like Dilara Findikoğlu and Di Petsa focused their energies on destroying the patriarchy, while Tolu Coker, recently named a 2025 LVMH Prize finalist, explored British design heritage through the lens of migration. Jawara Alleyne slashed up prep-inspired polos and knits, while Connor Ives explored themes of American tragedy and fashion's place in the dire state of the world at large. At the end of his show, he stepped out to take a bow in a t-shirt with the words "Save the dolls" printed on the front. You'll be able to purchase the shirt on his site on Wednesday, with all proceeds going to Trans Lifeline, a U.S.-based organization providing live-saving services to the trans community.
Of course, London Fashion Week wouldn't be what it is without a bit of cheekiness too, which was in full effect at shows like Stefan Cooke and Emilia Wickstead, whether by way of an ultra low-slung skirt or a pointed bra and a model carrying a newspaper titled "The Wickstead Times." Playful, almost childlike glamour was everywhere too, from Erdem to 16 Arglinton and beyond.
That's the thing about inherently British style: it can be many things at once. In London, impropriety can exist on the same street as Saville Row. Politics are always fair game, and creativity is crucial. Britishness in fashion isn't just about the plaids and the pleats and the fabulous outerwear. In those codes, there's a lot of fun to be had, and it's the way we should all want to dress.
Below, we break down four key style archetypes to carry on from London Fashion Week this season.
Burberry, the purveyor of the classic trench coat, had plenty of great outerwear to show last night. From the full-length styles crafted from buffed leather in shades of oxblood, moss green, and navy blue, to a version made from brushed fur and a tapestry-like jacquard that split off into a dazzling circle of fringe. We also saw some cropped styles pop up at S.S. Daley and Fashion East, which are great for showing off some leg, particularly in the warmer months. Traditionally water-resistant and lighter than a wool coat, it's the perfect piece for transitional layering.
Tartan has a rich history. Traditionally associated with Scottish Highlanders, the patterned cloth has shown up within British design as well -- from Burberry's trademark tartan (recognized by the Scottish Registrar of tartans as a "Corporate" variety) to Barbour's riffs on the Ayrshire District tartan and the family tartan. If you're looking to add some texture to your outfit, a woven pattern like tartan or plaid is an easy way to do it.
From Labrum to S.S. Daley to Simone Rocha, we spotted tons of coats with toggle closures. Unlike the wool topcoat or belted trench, there's a youthfulness to the duffle coat -- maybe it's the ease with which you can slip them on and fasten them up or preceding designs of the past featuring a hood. Today, toggle coats come with a hood and a collar, sometimes in double-faced wool and soft shearling, and they've never looked more sleek. This style is perfect for chilly spring days when you want to keep your look elevated.
Wry British humor isn't for everyone -- and that's what makes it great fashion. Burberry injected some of this into the fall collection styling -- head-to-toe tartan (tartan knit, skirt, leggings, shoes...) -- while the script on Connor Ives' oversized white T-shirt was a little more direct: "Things of Quality." His party girls fit in well with Emilia Wickstead's newspaper-weilding Hitchock ladies and Rocha's playful chicks who carried and wore stuffed animal rabbits as accessories. It's a reminder never to take yourself too seriously and have some fun when getting dressed up, forever rules to live by.