Far from flashy, devoid of any franchise appearance, Brangus Steakhouse has managed to become an integral part of the culinary landscape of Russellville. Originally a Bonanza restaurant that went independent, this barn-like facade along Main Street has hosted family gatherings and those seeking great steaks for a couple of generations.

The local favorite, helmed by Matt Brady, is known for its long-serving staff, for decor that was leaning heavily into nostalgia long before Cracker Barrel came to town, and for signature steaks that come to the table perfectly seasoned, perfectly cooked. But the first thing you encounter -- after a smiling staff member takes you to your table -- are peanuts. Brangus goes through huge sacks of roasted peanuts every month. It's part of the tradition, a bit of lagniappe and something to do while you're waiting.

You can get one of several appetizers on the menu -- like the housemade Brangus Tumbleweed, which is a whole onion that's cut almost all the way through, battered and deep fried, an alternative to onion rings. It requires a little work, since the petals are all attached at the bottom, but it's a nice shareable thing to bring to the table. The chili cheese fries are enough for an entree in themselves.

At lunch, there's a selection of specials featuring smaller portions, though not that much smaller. The sirloin lunch comes with two sides, ranging from traditional salad, mashed potatoes and gravy, fried okra, and steak fries to ranch beans, Cajun fries, and baked sweet potatoes. It's not a quick lunch -- and your wait may depend on how many others have come by to eat -- but it is a hearty one, with Chef Darryl's expertly prepared steak cooked to order. He got my medium rare steak perfectly cooked last time, and the time before, and the time before that.

These steaks don't need sauce. They're dusted just the right amount with Cavender's Greek Seasoning and they're tender and moist. They may not be fancy, but they're spot-on delicious every single time.

You can also go for a hamburger -- also Cavender's seasoned and with a touch of Country Bob's sauce -- a chicken sandwich, a quarter pound beef hot dog or a stuffed baked potato, and you're in good shape.

And then there's dinner. The prices are the same at dinner as they are at lunch (excepting the day's special, of course) and the selections are also the same -- all I've mentioned before, along with country fried steaks and country fried chicken, smoked ribs, fried chicken, fried shrimp, all steakhouse standards. But being a steakhouse, Brangus leans heavily in to its specialties. The ribeye is the star of the menu, in 8-, 11- and 16-ounce sizes, and you can have it cooked to order, even blue-rare, which many restaurants shy away from. Spoon-tender, it's what you're likely to come back to again and again.

And yet, it's not my favorite beef preparation on the menu. That has to be the Shish-K-Bob, the skewer-borne steak and vegetable offering seasoned with both Cavender's and Country Bob, cooked to order. There's no skimping here -- the four chunks of beef you get here are at least two ounces each, and they do come rare if you like them. The presentation reminds me of the days of Bonanza, Western Sizzlin, and other epic 1980s style steakhouses, and the flavor hits all the right notes -- a little tangy, a tiny bit sweet, somewhat peppery, but otherwise just really good beef.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention the possum pie -- one of two pies (the other being apple) and several other desserts on the menu. Russellville may be the birthplace of the specialty, which features layers of chocolate custard and cream cheese under a whipped topping and chopped pecans. This is the perfect example, and a fine end to a meal -- if you happen to make it to a point where dessert is still an option.

For the heartiest eater, there is one thing to note -- a 4 pound sirloin, served with two sides and Texas toast. It's $79.99, though if you eat all of it within an hour, it's free. I have yet to see this attempted.

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Kat Robinson is Arkansas' food historian and the author of 13 books, including the latest, "The Arkansas Barbecue Traveler: A Roadside Companion for Hungry Wanderers." Follow her at Facebook.com/TieDyeTravels.

Kat Robinson's favorite on the Brangus Steakhouse menu is the Shish-K-Bob, a skewer-borne steak and vegetable offering seasoned with both Cavender's and Country Bob, and cooked to order. (Courtesy Photo/Kat Robinson)

Brangus goes through huge sacks of roasted peanuts every month. It's part of the tradition, a bit of lagniappe and something to do while you're waiting. (Courtesy Photo/Kat Robinson)

If you can save room for dessert, Brangus offers possum pie, a specialty that might have been created in Russellville. It features layers of chocolate custard and cream cheese under a whipped topping and chopped pecans. (Courtesy Photo/Kat Robinson)