Kaiseki is to dining what the sonnet is to poetry; the form offers structure as well as opportunities for individuality and play. Chef Tomotaka Ishizuka's 13 courses hew to the Kaga school of kaiseki, featuring treasures gathered from mountains, rivers, ocean and farmland. A long timber bench bisects the restaurant: diners on one side, chef and his workspace on the other.

Prawn mousse bobs in a glistening bonito and kombu broth that's adrift with chrysanthemum petals. Sea perch is grilled and served under a singed magnolia leaf for two layers of smoky flavour. Nimono, a kaiseki signature reimagined here with duck breast, sees each ingredient simmered separately and arranged in dashi broth.

Tomo-An is expensive, but the value is evident in every gesture and offering. Ishizuka is a craftsman of the highest order; we're lucky he's in Melbourne.

Good to know: The vibe is quiet but not austere: beaming awe rather than garrulous whooping.